Inclusive Design
Fashion
INCLUSIVE FASHION
research - illustration
WHAT
Participated in the International Inclusive Fashion Contest, in Sao Paulo, winning the 2nd place.
WHEN
August - November 2015
ROLE
I created and developed the apparel and footwear based on research. The apparel sewing and footwear making were outsourced.
METHODS
Research, moodboard, sketch, technical drawings, prototype testing.
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Maiara Barreto wearing the final outfit
CHALLENGE
The Inclusive Fashion International Contest is organized by the State Office for the Rights of the Person with Disability of Sao Paulo, since 2009.
http://modainclusiva.sedpcd.sp.gov.br/
I participated in the 7º Contest, in 2015. The first part consisted of sending the moodboard, sketch and simple technical drawing with the explanation of each clothing adaptation. For the runway show, I did the patterns and a dressmaker sewed the clothing and a footwear maker made the boots.
DEVELOPMENT
Research
Interviews with women in wheelchair
Interviews with physiotherapists
Existing work in the area
Findings
Wheelchair users
Most brands for people with disabilities focus on wheelchair users because of the difficulties with clothing when you are sitting most of the time.
User specific needs
Even among wheelchair users, every design needs to be adapted to each person needs if we want the best and safest experience for the person.
"Femininity"
Girls in wheelchair often complain that they cannot wear short skirts and tight clothes. Also, some types of shoes are also difficult to put on.
Trends
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New feminist campaigns for gender equality.
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He for She campaign by UN Women.
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Hillary Clinton, the first woman nominated by a major party for the USA presidency.
Moodboard
Outfit decisions
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Mini skirt: because it is difficult to wear when on a wheelchair
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Jacket: because it is difficult to put on when there is less mobility
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Over the knee boots: because it is difficult to put on when there is less mobility
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"Superwoman” inspired outfit: Women should be able to wear anything they want.
Sketch
Technical drawings Outfit details
Model
Maiara Barreto
29 years old in 2015
Pharmacist
Swimming Paralympic Athlete
Model Maiara Barreto
Prototype testing
It was essential to discuss each step with Maiara, testing the prototype and making the necessary changes according to her needs.
Improvements
Jacket: First prototype was difficult to wear. Second prototype had openings by the arms and no need for back cut out.
1st prototype
2nd prototype
Over the knee boots: First prototype was difficult to wear due to backstay and zipper position. Second prototype had no backstay and zipper opening was closer to toes.
Skirt/shorts: First prototype was difficult to close. Changes of the buttons type made it good for the runway show.
Runway Show
7º Inclusive Fashion International Contest
Final presentation - November, 2015
20 finalists
Maiara and I got the 2nd place
FURTHER IMPROVEMENTS
After the contest, I talked to Maiara to make more changes on the jacket and skirt, so she could have each garment for her personal use.
Sketch
Prototype
New jacket, with thumb hole, is easier to close.
New skirt-short is a one piece, added magnetic buttons, and the front is shorter to fit better for sitting position.